Yosemite Top Ropes and Single Pitch Climbing: A Brief Guide
Table of Contents
Affiliate Disclaimer: The following article contains affiliate links. Anytime you click on them and purchase something, I get a cut of the money. It’s mutually beneficial-you get a sweet new piece of climbing or hiking gear, and I get to eat food again.
In the wild world of Rock Climbing, Yosemite National Park is the mecca. There are thousands of routes, totaling literal miles of vertical real estate on near perfect, bullet hard granite. The history, popularity, and magic of Yosemite Valley have even led some to call it “the center of the universe”.
The routes here may be big, bad, and awesome, but that is sometimes the problem. Not everyone has the time, money, or technical now-how to get up on the “big stone”. Fortunately, great alternatives abound.
Dozens of top rope, sport, and single pitch routes exist throughout the valley. These top rope crags allow easy access to Yosemite Granite, without having to devote yourself to a giant wall.
Whether your time in the valley is limited, or you don’t feel like dealing with pitches, approaches, descent, and all the other luggage that comes with big climbs, don’t lose hope. There is still plenty of fun to be had.
The following top rope and single pitch climbing areas are suitable for climbers of all skill levels, and are great ways to scratch your Yosemite climbing itch.
Disclaimer #1: Rock Climbing is a Dangerous Sport. Attempting to Rock Climb without the proper gear, training, or experience can result in serious injury, or death. Hike the Planet! Is not responsible for any physical, mental, or emotional harm sustained while climbing at any of the top rope crags listed below.
We do, however, take responsibility for any terrible jokes or puns you encounter in the following article.
Disclaimer #2: Though many of these crags are suitable for top roping, many some routes still need to be led in order to set up a top rope anchor. The requisite skills and training not outlined in this article are needed to lead climb safely.
Related: The Best Easy Rock Climbs in Joshua Tree
1. Swan Slab
Swan Slab is easily the most popular top rope crag in Yosemite Valley. It is located within easy walking distance of numerous valley landmarks, including the world famous Camp 4, the Yosemite Valley Lodge, and Lower Yosemite Falls. Featuring many great cracks and slabs, roadside access, and world class bouldering right next door, the Swan Slab is an awesome place to go rock climbing.
During my time living in Yosemite Valley, swan slab was one of my favorite hang out spots. It was right across the street from my place of work, meaning that I could access some awesome climbing on lunch breaks, and after work.
Some Swan Slab classics include Grant’s Crack (5.9), Oak Tree Flake, and Swan Slab Gully (everyone’s first multi-pitch).
Swan Slab is great for practicing crack climbing technique, learning to place trad gear, and building anchors. For these reasons, it is a regular spot for the Yosemite Mountaineering School to teach said skills. If climbing at Swan Slab, there’s a good chance that you’ll be sharing the crag with the mountaineering school. Luckily, there’s enough routes here to keep everyone happy.
Afterwards, head on over to the Mountain Room to enjoy some post-send cold ones. The Swan Slab combines awesome top rope climbing with easy access to other destinations and amenities.
2. Church Bowl
I’m not sure why they call it the Church Bowl. I probably should learn. Regardless, the Church Bowl, located halfway between Yosemite Village, and the Ahwahnee Hotel, is another great spot to set up some top ropes.
Admittedly, most of the routes here first need to be led before a top rope can be established. If this is not an issue, then the Church Bowl touts many great routes. There is something here for everyone, with thin cracks to squeeze chimneys.
By far, the most popular route here is Bishop’s Terrace (5.8). Bishop’s Terrace has a bit of everything-from perfect cruiser hand jams, to offwidth, to slab. It can be climbed in one, long 200 foot pitch, where a follower can then be belayed up. A single rappel to the right of the route reaches a small gully, followed by a short scramble then leads climbers safely to the ground.
Bishop’s Terrace is a great route to not only practice crack climbing skills, but also multipitch and rappelling techniques.
Other fun routes at the Church Bowl are Church Bowl Tree- a fun, albeit slippery 5.10, and Church Bowl Chimney. The Church Bowl, with it’s ample parking, bathrooms, picnic tables, and non-approach, is the perfect spot to spend your entire day.
3. Circuit Breaker
Circuit Breaker is a hard finger crack that can be easily top roped. It is only 20 feet tall, and is thus frequently climbed as a boulder problem. I still feel that it warrants a mention. This short, challenging crack is the best place in the valley to practice your finger crack technique.
With a tough, smeary start, Circuit Breaker demands good footwork. Climbers must finger lock up the left leaning crack, all the way to the top out. Many climbers who don’t want to commit to it’s heady finish may wish to rig a top rope.
To set up an anchor, scramble to the top of the route. I recommend placing a directional piece near the top to protect a pendulum swing.
Boulderers who wish to tackle Circuit Breaker will want to use numerous crash pads. A fall from near the top of this climb has great injury causing potential.
Circuit Breaker can be accessed by taking a short hike up above Curry Village, just west of Staircase Falls. After your climb, it will be worth it to take a few minutes to scramble up above to The Couch-a wide, flat perch that offers unique views of Yosemite Valley.
4. Sunnyside Bench
The Sunnyside Bench is another awesome spot, albeit not one that offers walk up top ropes. Like Swan Slab and the Church Bowl, fun crack climbs abound. To access Sunnyside Bench, take the Lower Yosemite Falls Trail.
Truth be told, I haven’t spent as much time at Sunnyside Bench as I have at other crags. Still, it is an enjoyable, relaxing place to go rock climbing. The most traveled line here is jam Crack (5.9)-a clean, fun splitter crack heading up the middle of the formation. Most parties will only climb the first pitch, and use the bolts to set up top ropes on adjacent climbs.
With an easy approach, and a shady base, the Sunnyside Bench is an ideal crag to get some laps in on some fun, challenging Yosemite routes. A cool bonus to climbing at Sunnyside Bench: in the late spring, you might be able to catch some errant spray from Yosemite Falls.
5. Highway Star
Highway Star is not a crag. Rather, it is a single, lonely buttress featuring one quality route. Rated at 5.10a, Highway Star has a little bit for everyone. It starts off on a cool detached flake, before a tricky boulder problem gains a fun hand crack. It’s a short route, but it has nearly every style of Yosemite climbing packed into its length.
Highway Star is not actually in Yosemite Valley proper. Rather, it is located just down Highway 140. Park in a pullout beside the roaring Merced River. From the road, the approach is very short and friendly.
A gentle scramble leads climbers to the top of Highway Star, where some sturdy trees are practically begging you to set up a top rope anchor. Once established, climbers can run laps until their forearms give out, their shoe rubber wears away, or both.
If you’re looking to break into the coveted Yosemite 5.10 benchmark, then highway star is a great route to train. Once feeling confident, Highway Star can be led as well. It’s a great place to train endurance, and get a healthy forearm pump.
Recommended Guide Books
Yosemite, Tuolumne, and surrounding areas have plenty more accessible cragging options than I have outlined here. I have only described areas where I have personal experience climbing. To learn about more top roping, sport climbing, and single pitch opportunities, several guide books exist.
Yosemite Sport Climbs and Top Ropes
Yosemite Sport Climbs and Top Ropes, written by Chris Van Leuven and Chris Macnamara, is the first, and so far, the only guidebook entirely dedicated to mapping out the top ropes and sport climbs in the Yosemite region. In this guidebook, you’ll find detailed route descriptions, approach beta, and GPS coordinates. This guidebook is handy for when you’re looking for a new place to crag, or are unwilling or unable to get up on some bigger routes.
Rock Climbing Yosemite Valley: 750 Best Free Routes
Penned by Valley local Erik Sloan, Rock Climbing Yosemite Valley is currently the most comprehensive rock climbing guidebook for Yosemite Valley. It features great beta, awesome photographs, and some cool artwork. During my time in the valley, Rock Climbing Yosemite Valley was my go-to guidebook. Nearly every valley climber owns a copy.
For more information, check out the guidebook on yosemitebigwall.com
Related Article: Matthes Crest: Traversing the Alpine Sky
Need Gear?
Yosemite National Park is an amazing place, bursting at the seams with near unlimited climbing opportunities. After spending literal months of my life climbing, hiking, and backpacking in the park, I know what the best gear is for hiking in Yosemite. Check out my list of Essential Day Hiking Gear to find handpicked recommendations. Whether you’re trekking deep into the wilderness to tackle and alpine climb, chilling on a top rope, or taking a rest day hike, this gear will make your Yosemite experience the best that it can be.
- The Best Campsites Around Big Bear California - February 26, 2021
- Hiking to the Hollywood Sign Via the Brush Canyon Trail - July 13, 2020
- Dirt Cheap Hiking and Backpacking Gear: The Most Affordable Gear on the Internet - July 4, 2020