The Top 10 Easy Sport Climbs at Red Rocks, Nevada
Table of Contents
Update 8/30/2019: Updated Links, Formatting
Red Rocks, located just outside of Las Vegas, Nevada, is a Rock Climber’s Paradise. Mountain Project lists over 2,300 routes and boulder problems alone, with more being added by the season. There is something for everyone at Red Rocks, from multipitch big wall outings, to fields full of boulders.
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Red Rocks features hundreds of named sport routes. The grades range from 5.4 up to 5.14, with everything from slabby crimp-fests, to overhanging test pieces. If you are a beginning sport climber, Red Rocks is a great place to be.
Approaches are (usually) easy, the sandstone can be gentle on the skin, and sun or shade can be had any time of year. With nearly 200 sport routes graded 5.9 and under, it can be hard to sort out which ones are worth climbing, and which ones can be passed up.
To help new climbers out, I decided to put together this handy guide listing the 10 best easy sport climbs in Red Rocks. Whether you want to climb the best that Red Rocks has to offer, or are only climbing for a day or two, these routes will give any new sport climbing leader a good sampling.
For the purposes of this guide, any route graded 5.9 and under is considered easy. The routes compiled here are not only the highest rated, but offer a wide variety of climbing styles and experiences.
I’ve put together this list by using a variety of sources, including ratings on mountain project, recountings by friends who have climbed these routes, and, most importantly, my own experience.
The only gear necessary to climb these routes is a full rack of quickdraws, a rope, an attentive belayer, and probably some anchor gear. I hope that you enjoy my list of the Top 10 Easy Sport Climbs in Red Rocks.
Before You Go
Gear
If it is your first time at Red Rocks, be sure to arm yourself with the right knowledge and resources. If you need gear, the best place to go is Desert Rock Sports located just 10 minutes from the scenic loop drive. Here, you can purchase climbing gear, camping equipment, and guidebooks.
The folks working here are friendly, knowledgeable, and are happy to answer any questions regarding camping, dining, permits, and the best climbing in Red Rocks.
There are many Red Rocks guide books available. By far, the most popular, comprehensive, and detailed guide book is Jerry Handren’s Red Rocks: A Climber’s Guide (2nd Edition). Other guidebooks are available, including those more specific to bouldering.
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Camping/Lodging
For the visiting climber, both Red Rocks and Las Vegas offer plenty of lodging options. Within Red Rocks, visitors have the option to camp. The campground features both reservation only, and walk-in sites, as well as a group campground.
The campground has both running water, pit toilets, and a large dumpster for waste disposal. Reservations can be made a recreation.gov.
If you prefer the trappings of modern comfort to a cold tent, Las Vegas is only a few minutes down the road, and features plenty of Hotels, Motels, and Airbnbs.
In fact, it might be a safe assumption that Las Vegas may have more lodging options than any other city, anywhere. A hotel also offers easier access to Las Vegas’s never ending night life, if that’s how you want to spend your rest day.
Dining/Food
One word: Buffet. Las Vegas is the world capital of Buffets. The best buffet located nearest to Red Rocks is the Red Rock Casino Buffet. Here, you can gorge your hungry heart out on beverages, appetizers, entrees, and deserts.
If you are of age, check out the $8 infinite beer and wine add on. Located only five minutes from the loop drive, Red Rock Casino is the most convenient option.
If you lean to the frugal side of climbers, there are many grocery stores located nearby where you can pick up ingredients to cook your own meals.
Related: The Best Easy Rock Climbs in Joshua Tree
The Routes
10. Frailty, Thy Name is Sandstone (5.7)-The Hamlet, First Pullout (Mountain Project)
Frailty, Thy Name is Sandstone, named for one of William Shakespeare’s famous turn of phrase, is a very popular route, and has been many a climber’s first Red Rocks sport climb. A relatively new route, this climb has likely seen thousands of ascents since it’s establishment.
For the sheer amount of sends alone, this route deserves to be on a list. Yet, for a 5.7, this climb is very fun, and offers plenty of variety. Frailty meanders, gifts a healthy sum of exposure, and features a blank face crux section that can be an interesting puzzle for a new sport climber.
It’s location at The Hamlet puts it in the middle of a group of climbs of similar difficulty, making it a great spot for beginners. If you are spending a day at the First Pullout, pay a visit to this great route.
9. Cut Your Teeth Crag, Calico Basin (Mountain Project)
Cut Your Teeth Crag, located high up in a gully in Calico Basin, is a really sweet place for the beginning sport climber. This crag is so sweet, in fact, that I couldn’t name just one climb. Instead, it is worth it to make the trek up to this isolated crag.
At 40 minutes, the uphill approach is long for a Red Rocks sport crag. Luckily, this hike also keeps the crowds away. Those who make the trek are awarded with views overlooking Las Vegas to the East, and the Spring Mountains to the West.
The crag features several easy climbs ranging from 5.5 to 5.8, and is great to enjoy with a group of friends. At 100 feet, the longest routes here add an adventurous feel. Pack a picnic, and enjoy the views and mellow, fun climbing at Cut Your Teeth Crag.
8. Manifest Destiny (5.9+)-Civilization Crag, First Pullout (Mountain Project)
Civilization Crag, located at the First Pullout, is a new crag that features lots of fun, technical climbs. Manifest Destiny sits on the tall north side of the formation, climbing up a slick section of desert varnish. The moves are fun, but can be a little challenging to the 5.9 leader.
Truth be told, there isn’t much consensus on Manifest Destiny’s grade. Mountain Project lists it as 5.9+, while the Handren guide book calls it 10a. The truth lies somewhere in the middle. The opening moves of the climb are technical and fun, and can be considered to be of 5.10 difficulty.
After that, the climb eases up into 5.6-5.8 cruising. Thus, this climb may feel 5.9 to some, and 5.10 to others, depending on individual climbing style, height, and other factors.
If you are a confident 5.9 leader, Manifest Destiny is a wonderful route for breaking into harder grades. If you can climb this without too much difficulty, it may be time for you to start picking out some 5.10s.
7. Friction Face, Panty Waist (5.8+)-Running Man Wall, Sandstone Quarry (Mountain Project)
Friction Face, Panty Waist is regarded by many to be one of the best slab sport climbs at Red Rocks. A line sitting at the far end of the Running Man Wall in Sandstone Quarry, it may be the easiest route on the wall. Still, it is worth climbing, especially if you feel comfortable in the 5.8-5.9 range.
A south facing route, Friction Face sees full sun, making it a good choice for chilly days. The line follows a line of bolts past sections of desert varnish. There are few good rests, potentially testing your endurance.
The bolts may feel a little far apart for some people’s liking, but the falls are safe. A new slab and/or sport climber may find this route testing of their mental and physical faculties. The challenge, along with its stellar climbing, makes Friction Face a must do.
6. Panty Prow (5.6)-Panty Wall, First Pullout (Mountain Project)
Panty Prow is a short, 5.6 climb accessed by scrambling up a gully to the left of the main Panty Wall. The Panty Wall is full of easy to moderate climbs perfect for the beginning sport climber. Yet, all of these climbs feel very similar.
Panty Prow, however, offers a more interesting climbing experience. Fun Fact: This is the first sport route that I ever climbed at Red Rocks.
Scramble up the gully to the left of the Panty Wall until you find yourself on a wide ledge. From here, Panty Prow starts at the arete starting at the right side of the ledge. The first bolt is a little high, adding some spice to the climb.
Soon, though, the gully on the right side opens up, leaving you with a dangling feeling of exposure. It is uncommon to see this kind of exposure on an easy sport climb, and is an interesting introduction to more adventurous climbing.
While the other climbs at the Panty Wall are all vertical jug hauls, Panty Prow’s slabby, exposed path is a good route for the beginning sport climber to tick. Panty Prow is well protected, but a fall risks putting the climber on either side of the arete.
This is a good route for setting up a top route for the harder climbs to the left. Bonus: Take a victory wall run on rappel after finishing this freaky route.
5. Sport Chimney (5.8)-Sunny and Steep, Calico Basin (Mountain Project)
Fitting right into the middle of this list is Sport Chimney, located at the Sunny and Steep Crag in Calico Basin. Most who make the long trek to Sunny and Steep are in it for the many hard classics at the crag. Fortunately, this crag also offers climbing fun for the novice sport climber.
Situated right in the center of Sunny and Steep is a wide, deep gap that is the perfect size for learning chimney technique. This is Sport Chimney, a well bolted climb that forces the leader to wedge their body in the gap, with their torso on one side, and their feet pressing against the other. This is a great practice climb for some of the classic multipitch routes in Red Rocks, such as Epinephrine, which features several classic Chimney pitches.
Sport Chimney features unconventional technique for a new sport climber, who may only be used to face climbing. Who knows, maybe it will be so new and interesting that it gets you to drink the Trad Kool-aid?
4. Man’s Best Friend (5.7, 2 Pitches)-Sandstone Quarry (Mountain Project)
Man’s Best Friend will forever hold a soft spot in my heart. Here, the young author led his first ever multi pitch climb. One windy march day, with a fistful of quickdraws and poorly coiled rope, I put everything I knew about multi pitch climbing (not much) to use.
Climbing the two short pitches took way too long, and setting up the rappels took even longer. But by golly, we climbed it. For that experience, I will always look fondly to Man’s Best Friend as a nostalgic, formative experience in my climbing life.
On that same occasion, I looked down into a gully and saw a woman in the midst of a topless photo shoot, but that is besides the point. What happens in Vegas…
Man’s Best Friend is perhaps the best introduction to multipitch climbing around. Two short, well bolted pitches, with a two minute approach from the parking lot.
There are not many routes that can contend with the user friendly experience that this route offers. For the descent, you have the option to either walk off, or rappel down.
When I climbed this route, we got heckled by non climbers. Since you are in view of the parking lot, plenty of folks may yell things like “You’re Gonna Die!”, or “How’s The Weather Up There!”. Pay them no mind, as you are climbing the sweetest little two pitch route around.
3. Long Walk off a Short Pier (5.9-)-The Pier, Sandstone Quarry (Mountain Project)
The Pier, tucked away in a gully, is a shady sport crag known for it’s hard routes. For most, the climbing here starts at 5.11 and up. At the far end of The Pier, just before the gully drops off into the canyon, is a fun, interesting 5.9- called Long Walk off a Short Pier.
This is the one and only warm up at The Pier, and is usually treated as an afterthought by climbers looking to jump on the harder stuff.
In my opinion, this crag is worth visiting for the beginning sport climber simply for this climb. Long Walk off a Short Pier climbs 70 feet of classic Red Rocks vertical sport climbing.
This climb is set apart from others in the grade, because, much like The Prow at the Panty Wall, this route sees uncommon vertical exposure.
The base of this climb starts 40 feet above the canyon floor. As soon as you start climbing, you may as well be hundreds of feet high. Long Walk off a Short Pier can give the climber the feeling that they are leading an arete high up in the mountains. For this, it is a great climb for that adds plenty of adventure and exposure.
This climb starts on a steep slope, so make sure that your belayer is securely positioned. Luckily, there is a bolt down low that will protect both you and your belayer, should you take a fall low on the climb. The approach to this crag is only 5 minutes from the Sandstone Quarry Parking lot.
Even if you are not interested in trying the harder climbs on this wall, Long Walk off a Short Pier can be combined with easier climbs at nearby crags for a full day of climbing.
2. Ultraman (5.8 R)-Ultraman Wall, First Pullout (Mountain Project)
Don’t let the R rating on this climb scare you. Ultraman is wonderful, albeit spicy climb. It follows a black water streak 130 feet up a slab. If you are a solid 5.8 climber with decent slab skills, this climb is a must do. The bolts may be spaced far apart for some people’s liking, but Ultraman is well protected nevertheless.
I see this climb as a good pitch for those making the transition to trad and/or multi pitch climbing. The long, run out sections on this climb will give you a taste of the excitement and adventure found in these schools of climbing.
This climb can be a test of your mettle, and will help you to strengthen your lead head. After completing a long pitch like this one, it will make all the shorter, generously bolted climbs seem much gentler.
1. Big Bad Wolf (5.9, 3 Pitches)- Riding Hood Wall, Calico Basin (Mountain Project)
Big Bad Wolf is the best easy sport climb at Red Rocks, period. This puts it in the running for the best easy sport climb anywhere. Situated in Calico Basin, Big Bad Wolf follows the 220 foot face of the Red Riding Hood Wall. Each pitch delivers fun, interesting climbing.
The style ranges from low angle slab, to vertical jug hauling. Though only recently established in 2011, Big Bad Wolf has become a modern classic.
Big Bad Wolf is a great sport climb for those looking to get into multi pitch climbing. All of the pitches are extremely well bolted, the belay stations are comfortable, and the approach is easy (by Red Rocks multi pitch standards).
As you climb higher, you gain views of Calico Basin, and Las Vegas. All that is needed is a 60 meter rope, a full rack of draws, and anchor gear. It is best to start this climb early to avoid both the afternoon sun, and the crowds.
Though this climb technically has four pitches, the last one is short, and feels like more of a walk to the top. Bring a picnic lunch, and a summit beverage, as this is the perfect date route. Descend a gully on Climber’s left, or rap down. I love this route.
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