Most rock climbers start off climbing in the gym before moving outside. I sure did. I came for the athleticism and social environment, and stayed for the frustration and callouses.
To a new climber, the gym can be a tricky place to navigate. From the screaming, shirtless men, to the hordes of children running amok, the climbing gym can seem a confusing, and at times, intimidating place. Here, I have laid out a few guidelines to help you, the new gym climber, better understand the culture of indoor rock climbing.
1. Don’t Use the Bathroom With Climbing Shoes On
Table of Contents
This should be common sense. Bathrooms are covered in fecal matter. Every time you go pee with your climbing shoes on, you are only helping to spread that nastiness to the same holds that people touch. Climbing Gyms are already nasty places. Don’t make it worse. Do everyone a favor by leaving your climbing shoes at the bathroom entrance.
2. Don’t Take Your Shirt Off
No one wants to see your abs brah. Unless you’re Chris Sharma, in which case you’ll probably get a pass.
3. Gym Grades are Soft (usually)
This can be a hard pill to swallow, but the grades of gym routes are often softer than equivalent grades outside. This is often likely due to it being difficult to emulate outdoor climbing styles with artificial holds. Whatever the reason, this is a good thing to keep in mind when you begin your first forays into outdoor rock climbing.
4. Use a Chalk Sock
Chalk Socks are exactly what they sound like. They keep your chalk from spilling everywhere/in the eyes of your belayer. Both gym employees and other folks will appreciate them.
5. Don’t Boulder With a Harness On
Just don’t do it. You’ll look like a gumby.
Disclaimer: I am in constant violation of this rule. Take it as more of a suggestion.
6. Don’t Climb With Your Entire Rack of Trad Gear/Sport Draws.
It’s really tempting to show off all that shiny new trad gear that you spent a bajillion dollars on. It’s a good way to prove how cool you are. But in the gym, it’s pretty obnoxious. Besides being loud, and distracting, it’s a good way to get some pieces stolen when you’re not looking.
Also, don’t steal stuff, I guess.
7. Don’t Let Your Kids Run Amok
Okay parents, we know you let your kids eat an entire box of Lucky Charms, washed down with Mountain Dew. We know that you can’t get off the phone with Charles from accounting. And we know that you think the gym employees are babysitters, but if you don’t restrain your kids, they might get squashed by the distracted boulderer. Don’t let little Timmy’s birthday party turn into a trip to the ER. Your kids are really cute, and it’s great that you’re introducing them to this wonderful sport, but before you let them get snot and cheeto dust all over the holds, do them and us a favor, and teach them about germs.
And, on the flip side, do try to be careful about your landing zone. Kids don’t know much more than running around and climbing on things. In a big room with soft floors, music, and colorful plastic things on the wall, children are gonna be oblivious to your presence.
8. Don’t Climb with a Cold
You’ll get everyone else sick. Stay at home when you feel congested. This goes for any contagious disease, I suppose.
9. Wash Your Hand Before and After Climbing
Wash your hands, and keep your diseases from getting all over the holds. When you finish, wash your hands to ensure that everyone else’s diseases do not infect you.
10. Don’t be too Audible
Climbing is full of screaming and grunting. It’s tempting to let out a power scream when going for that micro crimp. Unfortunately, not everyone else wants to hear your loudness. Don’t hog the airways by pretending to be Adam Ondra.
11. Don’t Flirt (Too Often)
Look, man. People are at the gym to climb. It’s not Tinder, so let people do their thing. Don’t be obnoxious with your flirting. If the lovely lady that is crushing it is giving you the signal, then you get a pass. But don’t create an uncomfortable environment in an otherwise friendly, positive space.
12. Don’t Climb Below or Above Another Climber
Another common sense rule. Yet, enough people forget this, that it is posted on the rules on the wall of every gym. This is an easy way to send another climber to the hospital. I have been kicked in the face a few times because I was not observing this rule all that well.
13. Don’t Lose The Autobelays
Seriously. They’re a pain in the butt to retrieve. Get used to the triple auto locking carabiner, and save the gym staff some effort.
Autobelays are a wonderful invention. For a shy introvert like me, they allow me to get my laps in without having to find someone to belay me. On that note, don’t hog an autobelay.
14. You Do You
It is easy to get distracted in a climbing gym. Imagine you are working on a hard boulder problem. You keep trying and failing over and over, and you are getting tired. Then, a stronger climber comes along and flashes it in one go. This exact scenario plays out over and over in gyms. There are a lot of egos in climbing, but don’t let jerks like that get the best of you. You are on your own journey, and their intrusions into it need not hold any meaning.
On the flip side, don’t be that egotistic climber described above. This goes for spraying beta as well.
15. Try Not to Be Too Cliquey
Climbing is, by necessity, a social sport. Naturally, people will form their own little groups. While this is not inherently bad, cliquey groups at climbing gyms can discourage new and inexperienced climbers from finding a belay partner or a spotter. Try to be inclusive, and you may help those young gumbies turn into experienced, learned climbers.
16. Always Wear a Beanie
This is arguably the most important rule. A beanie will improve your sending grade by several notches. Even if it is 90 degrees and humid, don’t take your beanie off. Bonus points for a shirtless/painter’s pants combo.
- The Best Campsites Around Big Bear California - February 26, 2021
- Hiking to the Hollywood Sign Via the Brush Canyon Trail - July 13, 2020
- Dirt Cheap Hiking and Backpacking Gear: The Most Affordable Gear on the Internet - July 4, 2020