The Best Indoor Rock Climbing Shoes For Beginners
Table of Contents
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So you’ve caught the climbing bug, and now all you can think about is rock climbing. You’ve bought a climbing gym membership, but now you need your first pair of indoor climbing shoes!
Arguably, climbing shoes may be the most important gear in a climber’s quiver. They provide protection, comfort, and climbing performance. For a beginning, indoor climber, it is important to pick a shoe that is both comfortable, and affordable. The shoes on this list are hand picked for exactly that, and I believe that they will serve you well, both in the gym, and outdoors.
Related: Tips to Help You Make the Leap to Outdoor Climbing
The Shoes
| Shoe | Picture | Price | Rubber | Skill Level | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Evolv Defy |  | $$ | TRAX SAS | Beginner | Evolv Defy at Amazon.com Evolv Defy on Moosejaw.com Women's Evolv Elektra at Moosejaw.com |
| Boreal Joker Plus |  | $$ | Zenith Quattro | Beginner-Intermediate | Boreal Joker Plus at Amazon Boreal Joker Plus at Backcountry.com |
| Mad Rock Drifter |  | $ | Science Friction 3.0 | Beginner | Mens Mad Rock Drifter at Amazon Mad Rock Drifter at Backcountry.com |
| La Sportiva Taratulace |  | $ | FriXion RS | Beginner | La Sportiva Tarantulace at Amazon (Mens, Womens) La Sportiva Tarantulace at Backcountry.com (Mens, Womens) |
| Black Diamond Momentum |  | $$ | 4.3mm Neofriction | Beginner | Black Diamond Momentum on Amazon (Velcro, Lace) Black Diamond Momentum on Backcountry (Mens, Womens) |
| Evolv Addict | 
| $$ | 4.2mm TRAX SAS | Beginner-Intermediate | Evolv Addict on Amazon Evolv Addict on Backcountry.com |
| La Sportiva Oxygym |  | $$ | 5mm FriXion RS | Beginner | La Sportiva Oxygym on Amazon La Sportiva Oxygym at Backcountry.com |
| 5.10 Gambit |  | $$$ | Stealth C4 Rubber | Intermediate | 5.10 Gambit at Backcountry.com 5.10 Gambit at Moosejaw.com |
| Scarpa Origin |  | $$ | 5mm Scarpa Vision Rubber | Beginner | Scarpa Origin on Amazon (Mens, Womens Scarpa Origin on Backcountry.com (Mens, Womens) |
| Butora Endeavour |  | $$ | F5 Butyl | Beginner | Butora Endeavour on Amazon Butora Endeavor on Backcountry.com |
| Climb X Rave |  | $ | Yes, it has rubber soles. | Beginner | Climb X Rave on Amazon |
Most of the shoes on this list are very similar. Much of it comes down to comfort, price, and closure. Reading through, you’ll find that I am biased towards some more than others, but don’t let that sway your opinion.
Evolv Defy-Simple, Eloquent
The Evolv Defys are ubiquitous. They are worn by both beginner and seasoned climbers alike, in every gym across the country. Possibly because they seem to perpetually be on sale. With the Defy, Evolv has crafted a simple, velcro strapped gym shoe that is both mighty comfortable, and easy on the wallet.
I have a sentimental attachment to the Defys. They were my first climbing shoes, and if you’re feet are wide, bulbous, and (like mine) somewhat comical, then these shoes will fit you very well.
I have no idea why they call them the Defys. Perhaps it is because they Defy expectations. Like, you see these shoes and think that they’re all plain and boring. Then you try them on and realize that they are kind of plain and boring, but they are really comfortable. You leave the store feeling pleasantly surprised. You notice the wind through the trees, and smile. The burrito at the Taco Bell across the street tastes a little better today. You are having a good day. Such is the power of the Evolv Defys.
These shoes may be pretty basic, but they are darn comfy. I have no problem wearing them all day. Half a decade into my rock climbing obsession, and I will still occasionally pop my Defys on for easy gym laps, or on crack climbs.
Buy Evolv Defy
Shop for the Evolv Defy on Backcountry! $88.95
Boreal Joker Plus-The Underdog
If I had to hazard a guess, I’d say that few people climb with the Boreal Jokers. In the gym, or crag, it’s usually 5.10 this, La Sportiva that, but Boreal is a brand that doesn’t get a lot of love. Many climbers might reconsider their shoe choices, because Boreal is a long standing, quality shoe company that has been sewing shoes for longer than most climbers have been alive.
The Joker represents Boreal’s entry level, beginner shoe. Promised as a comfortable shoe, you can wear The Joker all day long, be it in the gym, or on a long mountain route. It comes equipped with a thick sole. Thick like peanut butter. Thick like a smoothie. Thick like a Peanut Butter smoothie. I’m Hungry.
The Boreal Joker is an underrated shoe that deserves more recognition. The first pair of shoe that I ever wore was a pair of Boreal Jokers. It was out at Stoney Point , taking a guided top roping class. I scared myself up a short 5.7 route, begging all the way to be let down (a pattern that continues to this day). Luckily, I had a sweaty pair of Boreal Jokers to see me through. The next week, I bought a gym membership, and the rest is history.
The Boreal Jokers are available in several different varieties. The basic Jokers come in both a velcro and lace variety. The Boreal Joker Plus is a little more expensive than the basic model, but is more aggressive. The basic Jokers will serve you well indoors, and on easy outdoor routes. The Joker Plus, will be ideal for both multipitch climbing, as well as harder sport routes and boulder problems.
Check Prices for Boreal Joker Plus!
Check Out the Boreal Joker Plus Climbing Shoe on Backcountry! $99.95
La Sportiva Tarantulace
La Sportiva’s Tarantulace breaks the mold. Not only is it one of the few beginner climbing shoes designed with laces in lieu of velcro, it may be the only rock shoe named after a spider. That is, of course, if a Testarossa is not actually a type of spider. Wikipedia says no, but Wikipedia usually lies. Anyone can edit that joint.
The Tarantulace’s bright, zig zaggy design is easily recognizable. Thanks to the diligent efforts of pushy REI sales associates, lots of new climbers end up rocking the Tarantulace. Their popularity speaks for itself. These are good, affordable shoes. Thanks to the lace design, the Tarantulaces can be easily adjusted to maximize comfort and tightness.
The Tarantulaces also make for decent crack climbing shoes, especially at their price point. This is due, thanks again, to their laces. Laced climbing shoes allow for a slimmer profile for better access and friction within cracks.
Check Prices for La Sportiva Tarantulace
Check Prices for theTarantulace Climbing Shoe on Backcountry! $80.00
Mad Rock Drifter-Cheap, But Gets the Job Done
Mad Rock. The name has a reputation, one which is often followed by a string of choice descriptors. Such words like ‘cheap’, ‘low quality’, and ‘bad’. They’ve had it for a while. At this point, it may just be unshakeable.
Full Disclosure: I haven’t worn many Mad Rock shoes, so I will not offer my opinion on the overall quality of their product. However, I have flailed on many a vO in the Mad Rock Drifters. At this point, I will confidently say that the Drifters aren’t half bad.
Really. These shoes aren’t bad. For a beginner, they’re a solid choice. Mad Rock Drifters are comfortable and cheap. They have a bland, non offensive gray color, with generic velcro straps. Morrissey might wear these shoes.
For a small $75, nearly any climber can afford the Mad Rock Drifters. If you can find them on sale, then I encourage you to go for it. You don’t have a lot to lose, even if you’re just using them as a pair of beater trainer shoes.
There are better options for beginner climbing shoes, but the Drifters are a solid, ultra budget minded choice. Get these shoes if you can’t afford anything else, or if you want a cheap pair of shoes that you can abuse in the gym.
Check Prices for Mad Rock Drifter
Check Prices the Mad Rock Drifter on Backcountry! $74.95
Black Diamond Momentum Shoes (Not the Harness)
An oozing, gelatinous Blob. Chouinard’s creeping corporate polyp. It is all consuming, devouring, assimilating. The ever present menace. It cannot be killed. It cannot be stopped. It cannot be appeased. The best you can do is curl up in a ball, and pray for mercy.
This seems to be the business strategy of Black Diamond Equipment. Recently, Black Diamond released their first line of rock shoes. It is now clear that they are on the war path. Black Diamond seeks to take over every corner of the outdoor gear market, securing themselves as your new climbing corporate overlord.
Soon enough, you won’t be able to visit a crag without hearing bad music coming from a Black Diamond brand bluetooth speaker, or be accosted by a Black Diamond brand Crag Dog.
B-Diamond is spearheading their rock shoe theater of operations with the Black Diamond Momentum. Not to be confused with BD’s Momentum Harness, the Momentum climbing shoe is an entry level shoe, designed with beginners and gym climbing in mind. It’s their gateway drug. Soon you’ll need harder stuff to get the same thrill.
The Momentums tout a lot of specs that other beginner climbing shoes have, like a burly 4.3mm rubber sole. To compensate for the hit to sensitivity, the rubber is extra soft. They are grippy, while still allowing you to really feel the footholds. This combo is a good choice looking to improve their climbing footwork and technique.
Available in both a velcro, and lace version, the Momentum can be adjusted to fit any foot. Laces allow for better crack climbing performance, thus making the Momentum eligible as a budget crack shoe.
Though the Momentums haven’t been available for long, user reviews suggest that they are a solid gym shoe, and are a good choice for a long lasting, simple climbing shoe.
The momentums look pretty good, in my opinion. They aren’t over designed with loud, obnoxious colorways, like some other climbing shoes on this list. Black Diamond generally makes decent gear. I doubt that their climbing shoes should be any exception.
Check Prices for Black Diamond Momentum
Check Out the Black Diamond Momentum Climbing Shoe on Backcountry! $94.95
Evolv Addict-The Best Beginner Shoe for Wide Feet
If I was sent back to my days as a beginning rock climber, I would do things differently. First thing is that I’d probably choose a simple, cheaper hobby-probably Origami. Failing that, I’d probably spend a little more money to get a better pair of climbing shoes.
Those shoes would be the Evolv Addicts. I love the Evolv Addicts. They look like bananas, but they climb very well. Designed for crack climbing, the Evolv Addicts have a flat shape, a low toe profile, and a welcoming fit. They can face climb better than any entry level gym shoe, and only cost a little more.
I absolutely love my Evolv Addicts. They are my go to shoe, whether I am crack climbing, multi pitch trad climbing, or running bouldering laps in the gym. The Addicts are a shameless rip off of the 5.10 Moccasyms, but I don’t care. They are my best friend (I don’t have many human friends).
Beginners might do well to pony up more cash for a pair of shoes like the Addicts. The design makes them great for all forms of rock climbing. The shape of the rand encourages toeing power, while the 4.2mm outsole ensures long lasting edging performance. Unlike many of the other beginner shoes listed here, these shoes have decent sensitivity.
I recommend the Addicts to any beginner climber looking to climb many different types of vertical terrain, and to those looking to develop good climbing technique.
For a full review of the Evolv Addicts, check out our write up!
Check Prices for the Evolv Addict!
Check out the Evolv Addict Slipper Climbing Shoe on Backcountry! $98.95
La Sportiva Oxygym
Not that it matters, but the La Sportiva Oxygyms are the ugliest climbing shoes in existence. They look like they were modeled after a tide pod, which makes sense. They are perhaps the only climbing shoe that is designed to be washable. For the climbers tired of smelly shoes, La Sportiva has crafted the Oxygym just for you.
Clean climbing shoes in perpetuity. That’s the niche that Sportiva chose to target here. The Oxygym design allows for maximum breathability, moisture wicking, and cleanliness, while still being comfortable. The Oxygym is great for gym climbers, and will fare well on moderate outdoor routes.
The Oxygyms also come equipped with a generous 5mm rubber outsole, meaning that they will last a looonnnggg time. Thick soles are great for new climbers who are still learning footwork.
One other distinguishing feature of the Oxygyms is the addition of a Hook and Loop velcro strap system. This unique addition allows not only the velcro straps to be tightened, but the plastic hooks on the shoe to be moved medially and laterally.
The user can then adjust each strap more individually, allowing a greater range of comfort choices. It combines both the best parts of velcro, and Laces.
If you’re gonna be washing your Oxygyms frequently, then it may degrade the velcro faster. But don’t worry. By the time you wear these things out, you’ll probably be ready for a shoe upgrade. Or just get another pair. They’re pretty darn affordable.
Check Prices for the La Sportiva Oxygym!
Check out the La Sportiva Oxygym Climbing Shoe on Backcountry! $99.00
5.10 Gambit
In the X-Men universe, gambit is this mutant who can manipulate kinetic energy. Like many rock climbers, he un-ironically wears a headband. Presumably, the 5.10 Gambit was named in honor of both the comic book character, and of all the rock climbers who seek to emulate him.
The 5.10 Gambit is pretty rockin’ shoe. A neutral shape, and stiff midsole is combined with the technical aptitude of the Anasazi shoe line. The ultimate design results in a shoe that is great for beginners who want to take their climbing game up a notch.
Apart from some overhanging terrain, the Gambits will do well when faced with many styles of climbing. Some may say that they are most adept for long days of multipitch climbing, but the Gambits will climb anything, anywhere.
Retailing at $120, the 5.10 Gambits are going to be a bit pricier than most beginner shoes. I’d say it’s worth the extra cash, particularly if you want to climb cracks, technical face, and slab. These will allow you a bit more freedom in way of the rocks that you with to climb.
Check Prices for 5.10 Gambit
Check Out the 5.10 Gambit VCS Climbing Shoe on Backcountry! regularly $119.95 on sale $95.96
Scarpa Origin
Reading through posts on Hike the Planet, you’ll quickly find that I am a big fan of Scarpa outdoor footwear. This Italian company has grown to be one of the largest shoe manufacturers. Climbing shoes, approach shoes, mountaineering, and ski boots are all crafted with great quality and care.
Outdoor athletes the world over trust Scarpa to provide the best gear. The Scarpa Origin, representing Scarpa’s modern beginner rock climbing shoe, is no less for quality and design.
They call it the Origin because it marks the Origin of your successful and glamorous climbing career. One sparked after reading an excellent blog post written by a handsome, blonde rock climber. I can’t take all the credit, though. The Scarpa Origins will get you there.
The Scarpa origin is designed with thick, 5mm rubber outsoles, and comes with a velcro closure system. The Origin is very comfortable, and will last you all day in the gym. As your footwork improves, the power of Scarpa’s rubber really comes into it’s own. You’ll be able to edge and smear very well, while not having worry about Origin’s durability.
Check Prices for Scarpa Origin
Check Out the Scarpa Origin Climbing Shoe on Backcountry! regularly $94.95 on sale $71.21
Butora Endeavor-Packs a Punch
For decades, the climbing shoe market has been dominated by Europeans and Americans. With the advent of Butora, this paradigm seems to be shifting. In 2014, Butora emerged from the vibrant South Korean climbing scene as a maker of quality, high performing climbing shoes. The word “Butora” is the Korean equivalent of yelling “Send It!”, according to their website .
The Butora Endeavour is the first shoe ever created by Butora. It was made for beginners and gym climbers, and remains their most popular climbing shoe. Since then, Butora has created rock shoes design for sport, bouldering, and even an old school style trad shoe. The Endeavour stands as an excellent beginner shoe, perhaps the best one on this list.
Almost every other beginner rock shoe tries to play it safe. They keep a flat, neutral shape-probably because they don’t want to scare you away from their products. Refreshingly, the Endeavor incorporates a slight downtown.
Together with a simple, hook and loop closure system, and interior lining made from hemp, you got a great beginner shoe that gives great performance, is eco friendly, and packs a punch.
By the time I blow out my Defys, the Endeavour will likely take it’s place as my next training shoe. The Endeavours are built for wide feet. Folks with narrow feet may consider sizing down.
Check Prices for the Butora Endeavour Climbing Shoes
Check out the Butora Endeavor Tight Fit Climbing Shoe on Backcountry! $99.90
Climb X Rave–The Bargain Bin Option
Climb X is a company that is shrouded in mystery. They arose out of nowhere, and quickly made a name for themselves. A name that is most often associated with cheap, climbing gear of questionable quality. Every so often, you’ll find a climber wearing a pair of Climb X Climbing shoes, but not often.
The Climb X Rave is offered as Climb X’s entry level indoor shoe. It is most often compared to the Mad Rock Drifter, both in terms of quality and price.
Unlike the Drifter, the Climb X Rave seems to always be on sale. A pair of Raves can be had for up to half off retail, making them the best budget option on this list.
The build quality and longevity of the Climb X Rave is suspect. Many climbers report that they wear out rather quickly. Don’t let this deter you. If you’re still learning footwork, then you’re going to wear out your first pair quickly anyway. You can get two, sometimes three pairs for the price of any other shoe on this list.
These may just be the ultimate beater gym shoes, useful long after you’re progressed to higher performing, better quality climbing shoes.
Buy the Climb X Raves if you can’t afford any other pair of climbing shoes. Alternatively, buy multiple pairs if you don’t want to worry about replacing a pair of shoes. At their dirt cheap, bargain.
Check Prices for Climb X Rave
Conclusion
The most important factor to consider when choosing your first pair of climbing shoes is comfort. If you are going to be spending hours and hours in your shoes, then comfort will prove to be very important.
When picking out a pair, start with your street shoe size. Size up or down from there, being careful to note any discomfort or hot spots. Varying foot sizes and shapes will be better suited to different brands. For example, Five Ten shoes are usually ideal for wide feet, while La Sportiva often designs climbing shoes for narrow feet.
You’ll hear of many climbers sizing their shoes down, often to an uncomfortable point. This is done to increase performance. Don’t do this. Focus on learning technique and footwork first. When you have the basics down, then consider buying a smaller pair.
Your time for more advanced shoes will come soon enough. Other types of climbing shoes, like approach shoes are best reserved for hiking. If you haven’t been able to tell, I have a strong bias towards crack climbing (the patrician climbing discipline). I’ve put together a whole article about the best crack climbing shoes. There’s a lot of overlap between crack shoes, and beginner shoes.
Buy what feels right and fits your budget. Don’t worry so much about brand. Your feet and wallet will thank you.
Also, if you happen to be in the market for a good indoor climbing harness, I’ve put together a list of the 6 Best Indoor Climbing Harnesses.
I hope that this list will help you decide on your first pair of indoor climbing shoes. I wish that I had a resource like this when I was a beginner. If you have any questions or comments, feel free to leave them at the bottom of the post.
Psst: Need More Gear? I’ve Picked out the Best Rock Climbing Starter Sets to Complement your New Pair of Climbing Shoes!
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