The Evolv Addict Rock Climbing Shoe: A Two Year Review
Table of Contents
Affiliate Disclaimer: The Following article contains a few affiliate links sprinkled throughout. Clicking these links will take you to an online retailer. Anytime you purchase something, I get a small commision. This way, you get a great new pair of Evolv Addicts, and I get some lunch money (until bullies shove me against the lockers again.)
The name ‘Evolv Addict’ is some clever wordplay. It took me a while, but I realized that it’s a play on the term ‘Crack Addict’. As in, this shoe is made for climbers addicted to crack.
In the early days of my crack addiction, the Evolv Addicts caught my attention. Cheap, narrow, and comfortable, the Addicts would be the shoes to climb all of my dream splitters.
After a year and a half of heavy use, I can safely vouch for the quality of the Evolv Addicts. Not only have they proven to be great crack climbing shoes, but they fare well on slab and easy face climbing as well.
In this review, I’ll go over comfort, durability, and climbing performance. I will also compare them to similar climbing shoes, so that you can find the right shoes for you. Read on for a review of the Evolv Addicts rock climbing shoe!
The Addict at a Glance
Evolv Addict
Pros | Cons |
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| Check out the Evolv Addict on Amazon | Check Out the Evolv Addict on Backcountry |
  |  Addict Slipper Climbing Shoe $98.95 |
Evolv
Evolv, being a bit newer to the climbing shoe game, are still establishing themselves. They’ve crafted some quality shoes over the years. The Evolv Shaman is popular among hard boulderers, and their entry level shoes are common throughout gyms.
The Addict, along with The General (Affiliate Link) represent their foray into the crack and trad market. Evolv Shoes are proving that they can go “ toe to toe” with the likes of La Sportiva and 5.10.
Features and Specs
Like all crack climbing slippers, the Evolv Addict is fairly trimmed down. There aren’t many bells and whistles built in. For reference, here’s some of the Addict’s features, as per the Evolv website:
- Leather Upper
- Variable Rand Thickness for enhanced comfort
- Uses Evolv’s patented Trax SRS climbing rubber
- Weight: 9.5 Ounces Per Shoe
- Asymmetric Profile
- 4.2mm thick sole
- Shape and Color of an aging banana.
Fit
The Evolv Addicts have been sized to fit narrower, low volume feet. Climbers that find 5.10 Moccasyms to be too spacey may find a better fit with the Evolv Addicts. When designing the Addict, it is clear that Evolv sought a part of the market ignored by 5.10’s shoe lineup.
Where I typically wear high volume shoes, I found the Addict to fit snugly.
Due to it’s leather construction, the Evolv Addict is best sized down. It will stretch, and it will stretch a lot. I’m talking a full US shoe size worth of stretch.
I’m at the point where I now wear socks with my Addicts. It looks a little goofy, I know, but it’s to keep the shoes from sliding off. Also, the socks make long days on multi pitch climbs more comfortable.
One size down from your street shoe size is ideal for comfort. 1.5-2 sizes will enhance the performance on faces, but may reduce crack performance.
Comfort
Like most crack and trad climbing shoes, the Addicts are made for all day comfort. I have no problem wearing them for hours, pitch after pitch. That said, they are no multipitch shoe.
Unlike a big wall shoe like the La Sportiva TC Pro, the Evolv Addicts are best made for marathon cragging and gym sessions.
The stretch, as I mentioned, is considerable. Recently, they’ve been feeling more like a snug street shoe than a climbing shoe. It’s strange-I no longer have an issue walking some distance in my Evolv Addicts. Taking a walk is no way to treat a pair of climbing shoes, let’s be clear. They’ve transformed into a light duty approach shoe, perfect for when I’m too lazy to change shoes between climbs. I’m not gonna hike for miles in these, but they’re comfy enough.
Foot jamming is also comfortable, to an extent. Twisting your bones, tendons, and muscle in between two rocks is not going to be easy, but the Addict takes the edge off. It has a generous rubber rand, covering the toes and the sides of the feet.
Despite ample stretch and comfort, my big toes still get jammed up by the end of the day. That’s to be expected for most shoes, frankly. The Addicts sit at the high end of climbing shoe comfort scale.
Durability
A capable crack shoe, the true strength of the Evolv Addicts can be found in their durability. Besides some scuffs, Addicts have shown little wear after many, many pitches of foot jamming, and slab edging.
The Addict’s soles have held up very well. They have lost some of their edge, sure, but don’t expect to need a resole anytime soon.
Performance
The Evolv Addicts excel at Crack Climbing, as they are designed to do, but don’t exclude them from everything else. You’ll find them to be a versatile climbing shoe.
Crack Climbing
Crack Climbing is a tricky style to grasp for many modern climbers. Cracks are not easily replicated in climbing gyms, and natural cracks aren’t as abundant as outdoor face climbing. In many ways, it requires an opposite technique set than that required of face climbing.
I purchased the Addicts with the intent to learn crack climbing. I wasn’t going to let my shoes hold me back, only my determination. As I learned the art of crack, progressing from hands to fingers to off width, the Addicts were with me the whole way. As silly as it sounds, I have a bond with these shoes.
The Addicts are designed to slide into a wide range of crack sizes. They feature a narrow toe profile, good from wide fingers, or about a Black Diamond .5 C4 size, up to a fist crack. Once the climbing gets wide, these shoes begin to become less useful.
Crack slippers really aren’t designed for Off Width climbing. Low cut shoes leave the ankles exposed to rock. High top climbing shoes, like La Sportiva’s TC Pro, or Evolv’s The General, are much more ideal.
Related: The Best Tips to Help You Learn Crack Climbing
Slab Climbing
Equipped with a heart 4.2mm sole, the Evolv Addicts will hold up to extensive slab climbing. At many climbing areas, such as Tuolumne, Joshua Tree, and Red Rocks, slab climbing is required for most routes.
In my (limited) experience-where there are cracks, slabs are nearby. Unless you’re climbing the sporty sandstone cracks of Indian Creek, expect to climb a slabby route or two. This holds true for many popular destinations like Yosemite, Joshua Tree, and Red Rocks.
Slab Climbers will not be disappointed with the Evolv Addict. Evolv’s rubber is not as sticky as 5.10’s C4 rubber, but I’ve found it to be better than other Evolv rubber, such as on the Evolv Defy gym shoes.
With decent technique, the Addicts will be able to get up most slabs. I found them to be capable on Tuolumne granite, and on J-tree Quartzite. Edging on small, nubby features is not much of a problem (provided you can find them!).
Gym, Sport Climbing, and Bouldering
When it comes to steep face climbing, the Addicts are not my first choice. Their flat, no frills design is not meant for sport climbing, gym climbing, and bouldering. Yet, when I need em’, they will do in a pinch.
While not performance oriented, I still train technique and endurance in the Addicts. I can traverse on an indoor bouldering wall for hours, the fit ensuring a painless experience. If training footwork, the Addicts force me to focus on toe power and precision-their neutral shape asking that I need to do it all myself.
As a shaky analogy, the Evolv Addicts are like driving a manual, while aggressive shoes are like an automatic transmission. Aggressive shoes take some of the thought out of footwork, while crack shoes require me to concentrate a bit more.
On overhung sport routes, and powerful boulders, my Addicts won’t really do much for performance. Those are reserved for my La Sportiva Miuras. Since owning the Addicts, I’m much more inclined to choose crack and slab routes over tricky sport climbs.
Looking for a comfortable climbing shoe for training indoor climbing? Check out our list of our favorite indoor climbing shoes to see our recommendations.
Evolv Addict Vs. Moccasym
The Evolv Addict, some might say, is a direct copy of the classic and much loved 5.10 Moccasym. The design of the two shoes is similar, and their intended use is the same. Yet, the Evolv Addicts differ from the Moccasyms at a few small, yet important points.
Neither shoe is superior-just different. One shoe may be a better fit for you than other. Here are a few things to consider when choosing between the Addict, and the Moccasym:
- The 5.10 Moccasym uses sticker, yet less durable rubber than the Evolv Addict.
- The 5.10 Moccasym fits wider feet better, while the Evolv Addict is ideal for more narrow feet.
- The Evolv Addict is cheaper at $99 MSRP, while the Moccasym Retails for $125
Otherwise, the two shoes are nearly identical. Frankly, I’m just glad that both shoes are available, so that us consumers have options for our feet. Both the Evolv Addicts and the Moccasyms perform well in cracks, slabs, and on easy face climbs. Side note: the Moccasym’s Red color is easier on the eyes than the Addict’s bright yellow.
Similar Crack Climbing shoes
As much as I love the Evolv Addict, it may not be the ideal shoe for your feet. The following are some similar crack climbing shoes, complete with affiliate links.
- 5.10 Moccasym: The Essential Crack Climbing shoe. It is very similar to the Addict, but a better fit for high volume (wide) feet. A tad more expensive than the Addict as well.
- La Sportiva Mythos: For longer than any other La Sportiva shoe, the Mythos has been shuttling climbers up big, tall mountains. Using a lacing system, rather than a slipper, climbers can adjust their Mythos to an ideal fit and comfort. Like the Addict, the Mythos is ideal for narrow feet.
- Scarpa Helix: Another shoe built for beginning and intermediate climbers, the Scarpa Helix excels as a crack climbing shoe. Scarpa Shoes are generally a tad looser than La Sportiva shoes.
For more Crack Climbing shoe goodness, check out our list of the best crack climbing shoes.
Conclusion
Overall, the Evolv Addict has proven to be a capable, versatile, and (most importantly) cheap crack climbing shoe. This shoe is most ideal for cracks and slabs, but can finesse on easier boulder problems.
The Addict finds a home in thin cracks, all the way up to fist sizes. They’ve been a handy tool on desert splitters and Yosemite slab climbs alike. Without breaking the bank, the Evolv Addicts fill can fill many roles. Exceedingly comfortable, you won’t need to take them off.
I give the Evolv Addicts a 4/5. They aren’t perfect, but the Addicts are getting close.
Where to Buy the Evolv Addicts
The Evolv Addicts can be purchased wherever climbing goods are sold. Here’s some helpful affiliate links:
Amazon:
Backcountry:
Addict Slipper Climbing Shoe $98.95
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