The Best Crack Climbing Shoes in 2020
Table of Contents
Update: 7/5/2020-Added the Five Ten Grandstone to the list, and updated merchant links.
Disclaimer: Many of the following links in this article are affiliate links. I get a commission on any sale made through these links. It’s a win-win, if you think about it. You get an awesome new pair of crack climbing shoes, and I get to eat food again.
Crack Climbing, in our opinion, is the most fun and rewarding style of climbing. Some of the best lines in the world are splitter cracks.
If you are addicted to crack like we are, then you need the right shoe for the job. But not just any shoe will do. You need a purpose built, crack climbing shoe.
Crack Climbing shoes can be just as diverse as sport or bouldering shoes. Some shoes are ideal for thin cracks, while others are work better for off width. Most crack shoes are comfortable and affordable.
We rank the best shoes for crack climbing, with recommendations on the best use for each. If you are just learning how to crack climb, then you can check out our handy guide (related: 11 Tips to Learn How To Crack Climb), or learn from an experienced mentor (we suggest you do both).
Regardless, we hope you get a lot of value from our list of the 8 Best Rock Climbing Shoes for Crack Climbing.
Related: If indoor climbing shoes are what you’re after, then check out our list of the 11 best indoor climbing shoes for beginners.
The Shoes
The following shoes have been chosen based on quality, comfort, versatility, and price. Though all are designed to be used for crack climbing, some excel in other climbing styles as well.
Take our recommendations to heart, but remember that the best shoe is the one that is most comfortable, and feels right for you.
1. Best Crack Climbing Shoe for Wide Feet: 5.10 Moccasyms
5.10 (pronounced Five Ten) has made a name for itself. Their famous C4 rubber is soft, sticky, and versatile. Combined with the flat last and wide toe box of the Moccasym, and you have a winning combination.
It’s no wonder that this is one of the most popular shoes around. The design of this shoe makes it great for both crack, and moderate face climbing.
The Moccasym, like most 5.10 shoes, is ideal for wide feet. If the other options on this list are too narrow for you, then try out the Moccasyms. Featuring a large rand that wraps around the toes and front of the foot, and generous padding, the 5.10 is ideal for comfort.
Moccasyms are known to stretch quite a bit. For the best fit, it may be best to size at or a little below your street shoe size.
Get The 5.10 Moccasym at REI Get the Moccasym at Backcountry Get the 5.10 Moccasym on Amazon
2. Budget Alternative: Evolv Rave
An alternative to the Moccasyms, the Evolv Raves are modeled nearly identically. They are good crack slippers that can act as a decent gym shoe and, best of all, are frequently on sale.
A new pair of Addicts can easily be had for much less money than a pair of Moccasyms. The Evolv Rave is our favorite shoe to take up splitter basalt cracks, as well as long multipitch routes that require a mixture of both crack and face climbing.
The only (small) drawbacks of the Raves are their garish yellow color, which can seem sort of comical at times, and that Rave Rubber is not quite as sticky as 5.10’s famous C4 rubber.
The Raves partly make up for this by coming equipped with slightly thicker rubber on the sole. Still, the Raves are an excellent shoe that should not be overlooked.
Get the Evolv Rave at REI Get the Evolv Rave at Get the Evolv Rave on Amazon
Related: The Evolv Raves seem to be a slightly updated version of the Evolv Addicts. To learn more about the Addicts/Raves, read our full review of the Evolv Addicts Here!
3. La Sportiva Mythos
La Sportiva’s premier crack shoe offering is the Mythos. The Mythos is a slim, classic crack shoe that uses a lacing system, allowing its user more adjustability than a slipper design. It uses a leather upper, with a soft interior lining for optimum comfort.
The Mythos is designed with a Native American moccasin style aesthetic, perhaps in a competitive bid with the ultra popular 5.10 Moccasym. Regardless, the La Sportiva Mythos is a good looking, capable crack shoe.
The Mythos is available in both Mens and Women’s options. A sustainably constructed Eco-Mythos is available as well-built from recycled materials, but in the same, classic design.
Get the La Sportiva Mythos at REI Get the La Sportiva Mythos at Backcountry Get the La Sportiva Mythos on Amazon
4. Best Budget Option: Evolv Defy
A decent crack shoe doesn’t have to break the bank. For a good budget option, consider the Evolv Defy. The Defy is one of Evolv’s entry level models designed for the beginning rock climber.
The Defy has a neutral last, a flat toe, and comes at a price tag that is very wallet friendly. It seems like this shoe is almost always on sale.
The Defy’s only drawback is that it uses hook-and-loop Velcro straps, which may impede the Defy’s grip in cracks. Still, if you are just starting to learn crack, then the Defy’s will be an affordable option that you don’t have to worry about trashing.
A women’s version of the Evolv Defy, known as the Evolv Elektra, is also available.
Get the Evolv Defy at Backcountry Get the Evolv Defy at Amazon
5. Best Big Wall Shoe: La Sportiva TC Pros
The La Sportiva TC Pro is a shoe that is designed specifically for granite big walls i.e. Yosemite or Patagonia. Named for granite wizard Tommy Caldwell (hence the TC), the TC Pros utilize a neutral shape, and are notable for their exceptional edging capability.
The TC Pros come equipped with a high top designed to protect the climber’s ankle in a wide crack, and use laces for maximum adjustability.
The TC Pro is tailor made to take down anything that a climber can encounter on a big route, which can include anything from cracks to tiny footholds to smeary slabs.
As a result, they make for a strong, all around shoe. The TC Pros have a great reputation and are trusted by climbers everywhere-not just in Yosemite.
Get the La Sportiva TC Pro at REI Get the La Sportiva TC Pro at Backcountry Get the La Sportiva TC Pro at Amazon
6. Most Versatile Shoe: La Sportiva Katana Lace
The La Sportiva Katana Lace is widely loved in the climbing community, and for good reason. The Katana Lace is designed to excel at every discipline of rock climbing.
At first glance, the Katana Lace would appear to be a poor choice for crack climbing, but many climbers have discovered that it works just fine in nearly every size crack.
If you don’t want to sacrifice edging and toeing prowess for crack comfort, or you can’t justify shelling out the cash for multiple pairs of shoe, the Katana Lace makes for a good, do it all shoe that is equally at home on Rifle Limestone as it is on Indian Creek Splitters. The Katana Lace may not perform quite as well as a dedicated crack shoe, but it is a fine shoe nonetheless.
Get the La Sportiva Katana Lace at REI Get the La Sportiva Katana Lace at Backcountry Get the La Sportiva Katana Lace on Amazon
7. All Day Comfort: Evolv The General
Introduced in 2017 is Evolv’s The General. The General is designed as an all day Trad and Crack shoe ideal for granite big walls, and long multi-pitch routes. The General is modeled similar to the La Sportiva TC Pros and the Butora Alturas, in that it can climb granite faces just as well as it can climb cracks.
Unlike its competitors, The General is slightly downturned for more effective edging, and is touted to have little to no break in period.
At $20 less, The General is a good budget alternative to the TC Pros. If they follow Evolv’s wide sizing motif, then they are likely a shoe ideal for those with wider feet. They also sport thick 4.2mm Trax XE rubber, ensuring that they will last pitch after pitch.
Get the Evolv General at Backcountry Get the Evolv General at Amazon
8. The New Kid on The Block: Butora Altura
Born from the burgeoning South Korean climbing scene, Butora is a relatively young company that already has a reputation for designing quality climbing shoes. With the Altura, Butora has built a shoe for tradsters everywhere.
Like the La Sportiva TC Pros, and Evolv’s The General, the Altura is a shoe designed for versatile performance on big routes. It comes in a high top design, and uses rubber liberally to protect your feet.
Butora has designed the Altura in two models-a wide fit, and a narrow fit. It is rare for a climbing shoe company to accommodate both types of feet. For this alone, they deserve praise.
Moisture wicking, and made from recycled materials, the Altura promises to be a comfortable ride. Where the TC Pros are often lamented for having durability problems, the Alturas are longer lasting. Much praise is attached to these shoes, with many big wall and crack lovers making the switch.
Get the Butora Altura (Wide) at Backcountry Get the Butora Altura (Narrow) at BackcountryGet the Butora Altura at Amazon
9. Revival of an Old Favorite: Five Ten Grandstone
Built for the beloved Trad routes of the world, the Five Ten Grandstone is Adidas’ answer to the TC Pro. Designed for supreme comfort, great edging, and crack climbing performance, the Grandstone takes the tried and true ankle high design, and updates it for the 21st century.
The result is a soft, pleasant feeling, and supportive crack shoe. The Grandstones have been gaining in popularity. Spend a weekend in Joshua Tree, or Yosemite Valley, and you’ll find nearly as many climbers rocking the Grandstones and the TC Pros.
Owing to their protective design, and Five Ten’s famous, all gripping sticky rubber, the Grandstones are perfect for cracks, slabs, and offwidths all alike. Using a lacing closure system, climbers can adjust the Grandstones to their desired use levels.
Get the 5.10 Grandstone at BackcountryWhat Makes a Crack Climbing Shoe?
Crack Climbing shoes differ from other shoes in several key, important ways. Most crack shoes are designed with comfort in mind, and with a profile ideal for jamming. Look for the following features when shopping for a crack shoe.
Narrow and Low Toe Profile
When looking for a crack shoe, keep in mind that the narrower the toe, the better. Nearly every shoe marketed for crack climbing will feature this sort of toe. A narrow, low toe will slot right into smaller cracks, allowing for better footwork for when the climbing gets thin.
A shoe designed for sport or bouldering may have an aggressive, downturned toe. This sort of toe shape will make it all the more difficult if you are trying to ‘hook’ your toe into a crack. A good example of a shoe with a flat shaped toe is the 5.10 Moccasym, or any slipper for that matter.
Neutral Shape
The ideal crack shoe will be designed with a very neutral, non aggressive shape. When jamming your feet, you want to keep the shape and angle of the shoe straight. An aggressive shoe will force you to jam at more extreme angles, making crack footwork more tricky than it needs to be.
Sometimes, a good crack shoe can be slightly aggressive. The La Sportiva Katana Lace is one example, and Evolv’s The General is another. These shoes keep a thin toe profile, while also maintaining a slightly aggressive downturn to perform well on edges.
Large Rand
Many Crack Climbing shoes are designed with a large rand that wraps around much of the toe, and sides of the foot. This design feature is to enhance the friction and grip that a shoe will have on the interior of a crack, thereby keeping the climber more secure in a foot jam.
Slippers and Laces
With very few exceptions, crack climbing shoes come in two flavors-those with laces, and slippers. Hook and Loop Velcro options are rare, as this design often impedes crack footwork. Laces keep a low profile, and do not intrude. A laced shoe has the added benefit of being able to adjust the laces, optimizing comfort and fit.
The design is popular, as they are a simple design perfect for jamming and twisting in cracks. They are easy to slide on and off of your feet, but lack the adjust ability of a laced shoe. Slippers are most ideal for single pitch climbs where the climber is less likely to require long term comfort.
Sizing Crack Climbing Shoes
In general, a crack shoe should be sized fairly comfortably. Depending on the brand, a good mark can be right around your street shoe size, or even a little larger. It is important that the shoe is comfortable, and not too tight. T
here needs to be a little bit of “give” in the shoe to allow it to twist and conform into cracks. If it is too tight, it will restrict the movement of your feet and ankles, and cause you more discomfort than is necessary. Keep this in mind when shopping for your next crack shoe.
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