The Best Harnesses for Indoor Gym Climbing
Table of Contents
Affiliate Disclaimer: The Following Article Contains Affiliate links to Amazon, and other online retailers. Purchasing items through these links nets me a small commission, thus helping to support Hike the Planet!. It works out for both of us-you get a new indoor climbing harness, and I get to feed my out-of-control coffee habit.
What Kind of Harness do I need for Indoor Climbing? How many gear loops? How much should I spend? Black Diamond or Petzl?
You and I probably agree that rock climbing is the best sport ever. There is no better way to challenge yourself physically, mentally, and emotionally than on a rock climbing wall. Indoor rock climbing has made this sport more accessible than ever before. If you’re new to indoor gym climbing, then you are probably looking for the best gear.
Today, I’m comparing the 6 best indoor gym climbing harnesses. I look at important specs such as size, comfort, features, and price. If you need a new indoor climbing harness, then you’ve come to the right place, because I’m about to help you find the harness that fits your needs the best!
Note: The harnesses listed here are the Mens versions. I have provided links to the Women’s models as well.
Petzl Sama-Simple, Light, and Powerful
The Women’s version of the Sama is referred to as the Petzl Selena (REI)
I must admit, I’m biased. I am a huge fan of Petzl Harnesses, and I have long enjoyed their comfort, and weight. The Sama-Petzl’s entry level sport climbing harness, is a great choice for indoor rock climbers.
The Petzl Sama is not only very lightweight, comfortable and nimble. Four gear loops, a rear chalk bag loop, combined with Petzl’s Endoframe comfort technology, make the Petzl Sama to be a very capable harness.
Unlike most other harnesses, the Sama does away with Buckles on the Leg Loops. In order to save weight, the Sama uses elastic leg loops, designed to conform to the shape of your thighs. Even without adjustable leg loops, I found this to be a comfortable design choice.
These days, my main climbing harness is the Petzl Adjama, the Sama’s big sibling (click to read our review!). A beefed up Sama, the Adjama employs a fifth gear loop, and adjustable leg loops. If you think you’d prefer a more versatile harness for both indoor and outdoor climbing, the Petzl Adjama may be a better choice.
Petzl Sama at REI Coop Petzl Sama at Backcountry Petzl Sama on Amazon
Black Diamond Momentum-Most Versatile
A Women’s version is known as the Momentum-Women’s (REI). An earlier model, called the Primrose (Amazon), is also available.
I see more climbers wearing the Black Diamond Momentum more than any other harness. Personally, I have never climbed with one, but I can understand it’s popularity. You see, the Black Diamond Momentum is like a Honda Civic. It’s not flashy, but it’s gosh darn cheap and reliable.
In my mind, the Momentum is the “standard” climbing harness. It’s light and comfy enough for all day gym climbing, but has all of the features you need to take it climbing outside.
If you find the Momentum to be comfortable enough for you, then by all means, by it. In many ways, being average in all categories puts it ahead of the rest of the harnesses on this list. Featuring four gear loops, adjustable leg loops, and a rear haul loop, the Momentum has all you need to climb absolutely anything. Indoor gym climbers will particularly enjoy how easily it folds up for storage.
The Momentum is also sold as a starter kit with a belay device, and chalk bag. Read more about it here in our roundup of the best rock climbing start kits.
Black Diamond Momentum at REI Coop Black Diamond Momentum at Backcountry Black Diamond Momentum on Amazon
Mammut Ophir 3 Slide-Check Yourself, Before You Wreck Yourself
The Women’s model is simply called the Ophir 3 Slide-Women’s (REI)
Named for a Biblical location known for it’s vast riches, the Mammut Ophir 3 slide is an excellent climbing harness. Much like it’s namesake, the Ophir will bring much…richness? to your gym climbing experience.
The Ophir Slide 3 has all of the important features, like 4 gear loops, adjustable waist and leg loops, and a rear haul loop. You’re set in those departments.
One useful feature that sets the Ophir Slide 3 apart is the addition of a wear indicator on the belay loop. As a harness is used, a belay loop becomes slowly worn down by the daily stresses of climbing life. This is natural, but safety becomes an issue after enough of the loop is eaten through.
Assessing the safety of your harness can require a detailed eye. Thankfully, Mammut makes it simple to determine when you need a replacement. Once the belay loop is unsafe, a different color threading will become exposed.
This is only a small detail, but it makes a world of difference in a sport where your life depends on the life of your gear. In my experience, peace of mind will do wonders for your mental climbing performance.
Mammut Ophir 3 at REI Mammut Ophir 3 at Backcountry Mammut Ophir 3 on Amazon
Edelrid Jay III-Fly Like a Bird
The Women’s model of the Edelrid Jay is called the Edelrid Jayne (REI Link)
The Edelrid Jay II was my first climbing harness. I found it to be very comfortable, and perfect for indoor gym climbing. With the updated Jay III, Edelrid has improved on the design.
Optimizing for comfort with additional mesh padding, four gear loops, and reinforced for long lasting durability, the Edelrid Jay/Jayne III is an entry level harness ideal for all day gym climbing sessions. In my backyard, Blue Jays are common. They fly in, hopping between bird feeders with ease and agility. Wearing the Edelrid Jay harness, you’ll climb like the Blue Jays fly. Agile on the rock wall, expertly climbing between bolts and dynos.
The problem with my analogy, though, is that female Blue Jays aren’t known as Blue Jaynes.
Anyways, I like the Edelrid Jay. I think you’ll like it too. It has all the stuff you’ll need for outdoor climbing too, like a rear haul loop, and ice clipper slots.
Oh, and it’s made with Bluesign certified materials. Like the Edelrid Boa Eco Climbing Rope, it’s manufacturing process has a minimal impact on the environment.
Edelrid Jay III at REI Coop Edelrid Jay III on Amazon
Misty Mountain Bolt-An All American Harness
The Women’s model is referred to as the Finesse (Backcountry Link)
Misty Mountain* may not have the brand recognition of Black Diamond or Petzl, but they have a long history of producing high quality harnesses. The Misty Mountain Cadillac, for instance, has been the long time standard for Big Wall climbers in Yosemite Valley.
Hand made in North Carolina, the Misty Mountain Bolt/Finesse answers the call as the lightest, most nimble harness in the Misty Mountain lineup. Four gear loops, a minimal waist belt, and with ultimate comfort, the Bolt may just be the most comfortable harness on this list.
Of any rock climbing company, Misty Mountain is the most down to earth. Companies like Black Diamond and Petzl put on a faceless, corporate facade, but Misty Mountain keeps it real. Call them up on the phone, and you get to speak with a rock climber that cares about the product. Asking about an order status, I was able to speak with Goose, the owner of Misty Mountain. That alone puts Misty Mountain miles ahead of the rest, in my opinion.
I’ve used Misty Mountain Harnesses in the past. Thus far, I’ve been incredibly impressed by their outdoor climbing performance, as well as the individual care that goes into creating each harness.
*The Climbing Company, not the Led Zeppelin Song
Misty Mountain Bolt at Backcountry Misty Mountain Bolt on Amazon
Arc’teryx SL-340-Light, Comfortable, Stylish
Arc’teryx, along with Patagonia, is widely reputed as a maker of the highest quality outdoor gear. Their line of climbing harnesses are no exception. With incredible design, and build quality, Arc’teryx Climbing Harnesses manage to be both ultralight, and incredibly comfortable at the same time.
The Arc’teryx SL-340 marks Arc’teryx’ most basic, yet capable climbing harness. This unisex sized harness uses just two gear loops, weighs only 12 oz., and ensures that you climb in comfort with Arc’teryx’s famed Warp-strength technology. The Arc’teryx SL-340 is the Mercedes of Indoor Gym Climbing, and Sport Climbing Harnesses.
All of this quality comes at a price, though. The SL-340 retails for twice that of any other harness on this list. All of the online user reviews will assure you, though, that the hefty up front cost is well spent. The SL-340 is truly an exceptional climbing harness.
Arc'teryx SL-340 at REI Coop Arc'teryx SL-340 at Backcountry Arc'teryx SL-340 at Outdoorplay
What to Look for in an Indoor Climbing Harness
When searching for your best indoor climbing harness, there are some factors that you should take into consideration. The most important decision points are comfort, fit, features, and outdoor climbing potential.
Weight
The weight of harnesses can vary wildly. They can be super light, in the case of slim mountaineering harnesses. Big wall aid climbers will desire a heavy, padded harness. Most indoor climbing harnesses will fall at the lighter end of the spectrum.
No matter if you’re pushing your indoor lead climbing limits, or running training laps on the autobelays, you shouldn’t let your harness weight hold you back. A good indoor lead climbing harness will weigh between 10-15 ounces.
If you only want to use your climbing harness for indoor climbing, it’s weight should be the least of your concerns. More than likely, you’ll just keep it packed away in a duffel bag between uses. However, if you have dreams of taking your climbing game outdoors, then weight will play more of a factor. Unless you plan on hanging around on an El Cap belay for hours, lighter will be better.
Comfort
When choosing a harness, the most important factor is usually comfort. If you foresee that you’ll be spending long hours on the rock wall, then you’ll need a comfortable harness.
Most climbing harnesses, particularly at the entry level, have similar padding, and design. They are all relatively minimal, opting for a waist belt that conforms to the shape of your hips, rather than build in lots of padding.
When testing out a new harness, see if you can climb around in it for a while. How does it feel when you hang in one spot for several minutes? Are there pressure points? Numbness or pinching?
Not every harness will be ideal, so it is important that you test it out before you buy.
Rumor has it that the Womens version of some harnesses have better padding. I’ve never tested this theory, but I have a male friend that only climbs with Women’s harnesses for this very reason.
Fit
Fit wise, a climbing harness should be snug. If your harness cuts off circulation, hinders your movement, or is otherwise uncomfortable, then you should size up, or look for a different harness.
Climbing harnesses are sized like pants. Look to your waist size to determine your harness size. Example: If you have a size 32 waist size, then look for a harness that fits a size 32 waist.
After adjusting the waist belt, and leg straps of your harness, see how it fits. A good way to test out the fit of your harness is to use your fist. Once your harness is tightened and adjusted, try to fit your fist between the waist belt, and your body. If you can fit your whole fist, then you need to try the next size down.
Climbing with a harness that is too loose is dangerous. You run the risk of falling out of it, should you flip upside down when lead climbing, for example. Too tight, and your harness can cause pain.
You should also check to see if your harness’ waist belt is double backed. By this, I mean that the adjustment strap is twice threaded through the buckle, so that friction prevents the strap from loosening. Almost all harnesses made these days is auto double backing. However, if you are using an older harness (not recommended), then you may need to manually double back it.
Outdoor Climbing Potential
At some point, most indoor climbers get the itch to try outdoor climbing. When that day comes, you will need to be prepared with the right climbing gear.
All of the climbing harnesses that I’ve recommended will serve you well at the outdoor crag. If you’re leading sport climbs, or top roping, then these harnesses will be fine.
However, if you plan on expanding your climbing experience to Trad Climbing, Multi Pitch Climbing, Ice Climbing, or even Big Wall Aid Climbing, then you will need a more capable climbing harness.
Some of these additional features can include:
- More Gear Loops: 4-5 gear loops are often needed to help you store, and organize a climbing rack, along with other misc. Items.
- Additional Padding for Comfort
- Ice Clipper Slots-To Store Ice Climbing Gear
- Additional Belay Loop
- Rated Haul Loop
As I’ve mentioned, I think that the Petzl Adjama has the ideal mix of weight, features, comfort, and price, making it ideal for both indoor, and outdoor climbing. Don’t sweat the small stuff, though. As long as your harness fits well, and is comfortable, you can make it work outdoors.
Petzl Sama at REI Coop Petzl Sama at Backcountry Petzl Sama on Amazon
Conclusion-tl;dr
If you want my opinion, I think that the Petzl Sama is the best of the harness on the list, mostly because I’m a fan boy. But, I recommend choosing the harness that fits you best, and is most comfortable. Every climber is different.
Indoor rock climbing is a wonderful sport. It provides a great venue for pushing your rock climbing skills, in a convenient, controlled environment. Near the beginning of my climbing obsession, I exclusively gym climbed. Trust me when I say that the long hours of fun and training in the gym will be all the more enjoyable when you have a good climbing harness.
Petzl Sama at REI Coop Petzl Sama at Backcountry Petzl Sama on Amazon
- The Best Campsites Around Big Bear California - February 26, 2021
- Hiking to the Hollywood Sign Via the Brush Canyon Trail - July 13, 2020
- Dirt Cheap Hiking and Backpacking Gear: The Most Affordable Gear on the Internet - July 4, 2020
2 thoughts on “The 6 Best Harnesses for Indoor Rock Climbing”
Comments are closed.